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C-Wire Check product guide

Mysa Smart Thermostat V2 for Electric Baseboard Heaters (BB.2.0.01.NA-US)

120V or 240V electric baseboard, fan-forced convector and radiant ceiling heat in a standard gang box

A line-voltage smart thermostat for electric resistance heat, rated 1,900 W at 120 VAC and 3,800 W at 240 VAC with a 16 A maximum and a 250 W minimum load. It measures current and voltage for real energy reports, runs on 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi with no hub, works with Alexa, Google Home and Apple Home, and carries a five-year warranty.

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Published specifications

  • Maker: electric baseboard, fan-forced convector and radiant ceiling heating only
  • Maker: NOT compatible with low-voltage 24V, millivolt (gas fireplaces), central hydronic or electric in-floor
  • Maker: 1,900 W at 120 VAC; 3,800 W at 240 VAC, 16 A max; minimum load 250 W
  • Maker: standard gang box, 20 A breaker, neutral or L2; wiring setups V-L-L or V-L-N
  • Maker: Wi-Fi 2.4 GHz 802.11 b/g/n plus Bluetooth LE, no hub; Alexa, Google Home and Apple Home
  • Maker: temperature +/-0.5F, humidity +/-2%, light, proximity, current and voltage sensing; 5-year warranty

Fit and limits

Strengths

  • One of the few smart thermostats that actually runs 120V and 240V electric resistance heat
  • Built-in current and voltage sensing gives measured energy reports, not estimates, with no subscription
  • Five-year warranty and a published spec sheet whose SKU matches the listing's part number exactly

Caveats

  • Useless on any 24V system: no furnace, heat pump, central boiler or millivolt fireplace support
  • Load limits cut both ways: 250 W minimum and 1,900 W or 3,800 W maximum depending on voltage
  • The listing says it will not work on two-wire installations while the maker's sheet lists a line-voltage 2-wire setup

This one is for line voltage, and only line voltage

Almost every smart thermostat sold is a 24V device that explicitly refuses electric baseboard heat. Mysa V2 is the opposite. Its spec sheet lists compatible heating as electric baseboard, fan-forced convector and radiant ceiling, and its "before you buy" line names what it will not do: low-voltage 24V systems, millivolt systems such as gas fireplaces, central hydronic systems, and electric in-floor heating, for which Mysa sells a different model. If you have a furnace, a heat pump or a boiler with a 24V thermostat, this is not the product.

The maker's SKU on the spec sheet, BB.2.0.01.NA-US, matches the Model Number and Manufacturer Part Number on the Amazon listing exactly, which is not something we can say about most thermostat listings. The manufacturer is Empowered Homes Inc., trading as Mysa. Amazon's included-components list is one thermostat, a welcome booklet, two mounting screws, three wire nuts and a sheet of wiring instructions.

The body is 5.1 inches high, 3.5 wide and 0.8 deep, 129 by 88 by 20 millimetres, which matches Amazon's table. It is an LED display with capacitive touch and up and down temperature controls. Amazon's table lists a 3.5-inch screen size, which is the width of the unit rather than a screen measurement; the spec sheet gives no screen dimension.

The load limits are the first thing to check

Mysa's spec sheet gives three numbers that decide whether this thermostat can run your heaters: 1,900 W at 120 VAC, 3,800 W at 240 VAC with a 16 A maximum, and a minimum load of 250 W. The Amazon bullet repeats the two ceilings. The minimum is the one that only appears on the maker's sheet, and it matters if you are putting a smart thermostat on a single short heater in a bathroom or a small bedroom.

Add up the wattage of every heater the thermostat will switch, not just the nearest one. Baseboard circuits often feed two or three heaters from one wall thermostat, and the total has to sit between 250 W and the ceiling for your voltage. If it does not, you need more than one Mysa, and Mysa's own zone-control feature exists partly for that reason: the app can group multiple units and control them together.

The installation requirements on the spec sheet are a standard gang box, a 20 A breaker, and a neutral or L2. That gang box requirement is worth checking before you order, because older baseboard thermostats are sometimes mounted directly to the heater or to a shallow box that a modern thermostat will not fit.

The wiring requirement, where the listing and the maker differ

Mysa's spec sheet lists two supported wiring setups: V, L, L, described as line-voltage 2-wire, and V, L, N, described as line plus neutral. Mysa's own buyer FAQ explains the logic: Mysa for Baseboard can replace most single-pole and double-pole thermostats, but it functions internally as a single-pole device, requiring a connection to both power wires, L1 and L2 or neutral, while switching power to the heater on only one of them, the load wire.

The Amazon bullet says something that reads differently. It says Mysa does not work with low-voltage systems or two-wire installations, and that it requires at least four wires including a neutral or a second live wire. The maker's sheet, meanwhile, lists a setup it calls line-voltage 2-wire as supported. Those two statements do not obviously agree, and neither document explains the difference. We are not going to decide which reading is right for your wall.

Because this is a line-voltage device carrying up to 16 amps, the stakes of getting it wrong are higher than with a 24V thermostat. Run Mysa's compatibility checker, count the conductors actually in your box, and if you are not confident working on a 120 or 240 volt circuit, have an electrician do it. We are not publishing wiring steps here; Mysa supplies a wiring instruction sheet in the box and a checker on its site.

Sensors, network and what runs without a subscription

The spec sheet lists more sensing than most thermostats at this level: temperature accurate to plus or minus 0.5°F or 0.3°C, humidity to plus or minus 2 percent, light, proximity, and built-in current and voltage monitoring. That last pair is what feeds the energy reports, and it is a real advantage of a line-voltage thermostat: it is in the circuit, so it can measure actual power use rather than estimating from run time.

Wireless is Wi-Fi 2.4 GHz only, 802.11 b/g/n, plus Bluetooth Low Energy, with the spec sheet stating no hub is required. Amazon's table lists the connectivity technology as WiFi and NFC; the maker's sheet lists Bluetooth LE and does not mention NFC. Take the maker's list. As with most smart thermostats, make sure your router has a 2.4 GHz band available at the thermostat's wall.

The features Mysa lists are weekly scheduling, zone control for grouping units, shared access so household members get full app control, vacation mode, geolocation that stops heating an empty home, and energy reports. Mysa states "zero subscription, ever" on the spec sheet and "free app, zero subscriptions" on the product page, and says it never sells your data to third parties. The spec sheet also lists security credentials: TLS 1.2 or better in transit, SOC 2 Type 1, UL 60730 and CSA Product Security Level 1. It works with Amazon Alexa, Google Home and Apple Home, and there is no microphone or speaker in the unit.

Five years, and what the listing does not tell you

Mysa's spec sheet and product page both state a five-year warranty, which is the longest consumer term among the mainstream smart thermostats and does not require professional installation to obtain. Mysa also says support is North American based, by email, live chat or phone, and that app updates continue at no extra cost. We did not read Mysa's full warranty policy document, so ask for the written terms and the exclusions before you rely on the five-year figure, and keep proof of purchase.

Amazon's Item details for this ASIN do not publish warranty terms, and the listing supplies no manual or PDF at all, which is why the maker's spec sheet does the work on this page. If you buy through a marketplace seller rather than Mysa or an authorised retailer, confirm with Mysa that the warranty applies to that purchase route before you assume it does.

The savings claim on both the listing and Mysa's page is up to 26 percent on heating costs. That is the maker's own figure and depends on your climate, your rates and how you used the old thermostat. Mysa also publishes a rebate checker on its site; check any rebate with your own utility rather than with the listing.

Who this is actually for

Buy this if your heat is electric resistance on the wall or in the ceiling: baseboards, fan-forced convectors or radiant ceiling panels, each circuit between 250 W and the voltage ceiling, in a standard gang box on a 20 A breaker, with both power wires present. In that situation the alternatives are mostly dumb line-voltage thermostats, and Mysa is one of the few smart options that will not simply refuse to work.

Do not buy this if you have a furnace, air conditioner, heat pump, central boiler, millivolt gas fireplace or electric in-floor heating. The spec sheet rules out the first four categories by name and sends in-floor buyers to a different Mysa model. It is also the reason you should ignore Amazon specification tables on other thermostat listings that say "Electric Baseboard Heater" under Specific Uses; on most 24V thermostats, that field is wrong, and on this one it is the whole point.

One practical note for a multi-thermostat house: because baseboard heat is zoned by room, replacing every wall thermostat means buying one Mysa per location. Mysa's zone control and shared access are designed around that, and the app groups them, but the cost scales with the number of thermostats on your walls, not with the size of the house.

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Primary sources

  1. Mysa for Baseboard V2 product spec sheet (maker PDF), SKU BB.2.0.01.NA-US
  2. Mysa product page for Mysa for Electric Baseboard Heaters V2
  3. Mysa compatibility checker, named on the spec sheet and the product page

Primary sources checked .

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